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The vast, varied waters of County Fermanagh |
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Fermanagh is the only one of Northern Ireland's 6 counties that doesn't come in contact with Lough Neagh. It makes up for that by including the country's second and third largest lakes: Upper and Lower Erne. They're so long that, together, they almost chop the entire county in half. A short river connects the two, where the town of Enniskillen sits. |
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![]() Enniskillen Castle. Photo Northern Ireland Tourist Board |
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Naturally, the Upper Erne is the higher of the two, while the Lower Erne is closer to the sea. However, on a map they seem upside down, as the Lower Lough is further to the north. Both are really just broad sections of the River Erne. As it makes its journey to the Atlantic Ocean, it changes wildly in size and shape. The Lower Lough becomes very wide and deep, with vast expanses of open water. The Upper Lough, on the other hand, is a congested maze of tiny islands. |
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![]() Lower Lough Erne. Photo Kenneth Allen |
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Some of these lumps of land became peninsulas, after the water level was lowered by drainage schemes in the 1880s. Nevertheless, they're usually still referred to as islands, to avoid confusion. Sometimes they come up for sale - but before you reach for your credit card, take note of the price tag. A small one called Inishturk was sold in 2007 for nearly £700,000. |
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![]() Lusty Beg Ferry, taking vehicles to Lusty Beg Island in Lower Lough Erne. Photo Kenneth Allen |
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Altogether there are well over a hundred islands, plus all sorts of coves and inlets, giving canoeists plenty of fascinating nooks and crannies to explore. The calm bays offer perfect conditions for waterskiing and wakeboarding - so much so that they regularly host important competitions. A similarly prestigious contest is the Lough Erne Regatta, Ireland's oldest series of sailing races. They've been held every year since the early 19th century, out on the ocean-like waves of the Lower Lough. |
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![]() Canoeing on Upper Lough Erne. Photo stevecadman |
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Despite all the organised events, there's still plenty of space for quiet, casual cruising. There are no commercial craft to contend with, so sometimes it feels like you've got the whole lake to yourself. A morning's fishing, followed by a slow pub lunch at one of the surrounding towns, is regarded by many as the perfect weekend. |
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![]() Boating on Lough Erne. Photo Kenneth Allen |
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While investigating the lake, it's best to keep a close eye on your map. One, because it's easy to get lost, and two, because you'll want to hunt out the interesting islands hidden amongst the labyrinthine waterways. The largest, with a length of 5 miles, is Boa Island. It's also the easiest to find, as both ends are connected to the mainland via bridges. Its name comes from an old Celtic goddess of war, who could take the form of a crow or wolf. These old religions are remembered at the eerie Caldragh Graveyard, with two ancient, creepy stone figures. |
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![]() Stone Figure on Boa Island. Photo Northern Ireland Tourist Board |
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There are some similar monuments on the nearby White Island: 8 in total, each with a different expression. The figures are carved into the ruined walls of White Island Church, which was built way back in the 12th century. However, the carvings are believed to be several hundred years older than that, and no-one knows who their maker might have been. |
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![]() The White Island Figures. Photo Northern Ireland Tourist Board |
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The Christians left many of their own relics here, most notably on Devenish Island. Its round tower rises up 30 metres in the air, offering a wonderful vantage point. From the top, monks could easily spot approaching attackers, giving them plenty of time to hide their valuables. |
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![]() The Round Tower. Photo Überraschungsbilder |
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Travellers on the water's surface have to share space with its many feathered residents, such as swans and terns. There are dozens of species, making this a popular spot for birdwatchers. Take care though, as sometimes the creatures get a little too friendly, following your boat with loud squawks and madly flapping wings. |
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Enniskillen Castle is open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm (from 2pm on Saturdays and Mondays) Closed Sundays (except in July & August). Entry costs around £4 per adult, £3 children. Enniskillen Castle, Castle Barracks, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh, BT74 7HL. Tel: 028 66 325000 |
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Lough Erne Boat Tours - Contact the Fermanaugh Tourist Information Centre for more information. Tel: 028 6632 3110 |
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Lough Navar Forest Park is opened from 10am until sunset. There is a fee for the forest drive. It's signposted from the A46, 5 miles north-west of Derrygonnelly. Tel: 028 8167 0666 |
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Castle Archdale Country Park is open 9am - 9pm (earlier in winter). Admission is free. It's located just outside the village of Lisnarick, about 10 miles north-west of Enniskillen. NI Environment Agency: 028 6862 1588. |
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The Crom Estate is open daily from 10am until 6pm (later in summer). Admission is around £4 for adults and £2 for children. It's located 3 miles west of Newtownbutler on the Newtownbutler to Crom road. National Trust: 028 6773 8118. |
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